cheese, époisses

Époisses de Bourgogne (AOP) is produced in Burgundy from pasteurized full-fat cow's milk, washed every few days during aging with an increasing concentration of marc de Bourgogne. The washing encourages Brevibacterium linens growth on the surface — the bacteria responsible for the striking orange color and the sulfurous, pungent aroma that famously led to Époisses being banned from Paris public transportation. The paradox of Époisses is that the aroma is far more aggressive than the taste: once past the rind (which is edible but intensely flavored), the interior paste is rich, creamy, and complex without the extreme pungency the smell suggests. Traditional service in a wooden box, with good bread and a glass of white Burgundy (the regional pairing that cuts through the richness). A fully ripe Époisses cannot be rushed — properly aged specimens are almost pourable at room temperature.